Hi all, welcome to my first blog post! I’ve been meaning to start this blog up for a LONG time now, and I’m so glad that I’ve finally gotten round to it. I wanted to share with you my process of creating my evil queen cosplay gown that is shown in my sketches above. I have recently completely finished this gown, but I’m going to break my blog pots up in chunks (or at least for tonight. It’s 2am and I need my beauty sleep!). Enjoy! x
For this project, I used two patterns from McCalls. I used M6818 for the bodice and sleeves, and I used M4028 for the skirt and underskirt.
I had originally sewn a size 14 mock up (contrary to the above layout) , and I was very disappointed to see that the bodice ballooned in the back, and was very flat in the front bodice where curve was essential over the bust. To attempt to fix this, I had to take in the seams between the bodice fronts and bodice side fronts to fit me better and to give the bodice more shape (as shown in the purple marking). I only sewed one side to see how it made the bodice look before going any further.
The front bodice puckered a lot between the bodice front and bodice side pieces and made it look extremely messy as shown. This has now created a very curved bodice but with too much of a point at the bust. Due to this, I will be completely restarting with a size smaller pattern (size 12) , and re-altering the neckline of the pattern to match my final design, and to fit in with the neckline.
I figured out later on that the bodice in fact did not need to be sized down in the mock up, but it was too late because I had already cut my fabric pieces out of my final pattern in a size 12 and I didn’t want to waste such a gorgeous fabric. I had simply sewn the wrong side pieces together which made it balloon in the back bodice, when it should have been flat, therefore making the front flat when it needed a bit more of a rounded shape for the breasts.
SO. MOVING ON FROM THAT MESS.
I drafted and cut out a collar pattern for my gown that would stand up with boning behind my head. To do this, I basted on a large piece of fabric to my collar, by outlining the neckline shape onto paper and cutting it out, making sure to leave a lot of room to play around with it to achieve the shape I wanted once it was sewn down, and I could see the garment on the mannequin. I then unpicked the basting stitch and cut out my pattern from the fabric, then transferred it on to paper, being sure to add seam allowance. This was my final pattern below.
I then cut two of these pattern pieces, and sewed them together (front and back). I sewed in 5mm boning channels – one on the left edge, one in the center, and one on the right edge (boning not shown below).
I then attached the collar to the neckline of the garment, and I wasn’t too pleased with the result. The collar kept falling backwards, and I realized that in my final garment, I would have to sew the center boning channel all the way down the back of the collar and bodice to stabilize it. (SHOWN BELOW)
Next, I cut out my sleeve pattern, and basted it to the garment. I tried on the bodice, and marked with a pen where I wanted the sleeve to finish before the flounces came into play (which ended up being right above my elbow). I removed the basting stitch, and straightened out my markings on the sleeve, and transferring the markings to the other sleeve at the same time, being sure to add seam allowance. I cut them to my desired lenth, and sewed them on each with a 1.5 seam allowance. (SHOWN BELOW)
I also made a mock up for my skirt, using the pattern M4028. This included two back panels, two side panels, and a front panel to create a full skirt. Because I only wanted the skirt to meet at the seam where the side front and front bodice met, I disregarded the bodice front for this stage. I sewed down each edge of the skirt, with a 1.5cm straight seam, before gathering the skirt to my size to meet at those particular side front seams. I then sewed the skirt onto the waist using a 1.5cm seam. (SHOWN BELOW)
I drafted and cut out my flounce pattern by measuring the circumference of where my sleeve ended to create the inner circle (adding seam allowance), and increased the diameter by 30cm, and matched the circumference all the way round the pattern to form a semi-circle. Your pattern should resemble a half donut. Cut on the fold, so you get a full circle piece as shown in the photo below.
I cut out three of these for each sleeve. I then sewed them on to the edge of my sleeves with a 1.5cm seam allowance. The three layers will be replaced with three layers of sheer fabric on my final garment of different colours.
Unfortunately, I don’t have a photo of the flounces attached right now, and I’m not going to rummage and search at this time of night. I’ll do my best to add it into my next blog post, but apart from that, my mock up is complete! I can now write about my final garment! YAY!
Alrighty, well that’s enough typing for me for one night. I’m struggling to keep my eyes open as I type! Hopefully I’ll be back in a few days for another blog post, and I really hope my slope in detail for this post as I get more and more tired doesn’t cause anybody any inconvenience in following my steps. Anyway, I’ll talk to you guys soon! Lots of Love, Wendy xx